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December 17, 2024
Catching Giants: A Conversation with Dominique Charrier, Big-Wave Surfer from Chile
Dominique Charrier, a rising star in the world of big-wave surfing, has spent the past year conquering massive waves and pushing her limits. From her home break at Punta de Lobos in Chile to the towering swells of Nazaré, she has shown incredible courage, dedication, and passion for the sport. At just 21 years old, Dominique is already inspiring a new generation of surfers, balancing her deep respect for the ocean with a drive to chase the biggest waves on the planet.
When Dominique and her boyfriend, Martin, made their first trip to Nazaré, we asked photographer Helio Antonio to capture the magic of this unforgettable experience.
We’re also very excited to welcome Dominique as our newest SurfEars ambassador. We sat down with Dominique to learn more about her journey and how growing up near powerful waves shaped her, what it’s like to surf alongside her partner, and how she prepares to tackle some of nature’s most humbling forces.
Dominique, first of all, congrats on such an incredible year! You’ve been out there conquering some huge waves. What has this season meant to you?
Thank you so much! The season in Chile runs from March to August, this year was special since I had the goal of entering my first barrel on a big wave, and my house Punta de Lobos gave me the opportunity to do it, and it is definitely the most incredible thing that I’ve seen it and I can’t wait to try it again! In October I traveled to Nazaré for the first time at the beginning of the season there, I was able to paddle a good wave and it was a nice and great learning experience.
Growing up at Punta de Lobos in Chile must have been an adventure in itself. What was it like to spend your childhood by such powerful waves? How did that shape your relationship with the ocean?
I grew up on this left point, playing on the rocks with my friends and watching big waves. I had a lot of admiration for those who surfed those conditions but I never imagined that I would be there one day. Punta de lobos has been a great school because it is a cold and very strong wave, it has prepared me well and one day I felt ready to enter with the big sea and I fell in love with it.
Do you remember the first time you really felt the pull toward surfing? Was it immediate, or did it grow over time?
My dad makes surfboards, he is the shaper of my boards. So I grew up surrounded by boards, waves and surf. He made my first board when I was 6 months old with my little hands painted on it. When I caught my first waves I loved surfing, and every day my love for it grows more.
At what point did you realize that big waves specifically were your calling? Was there a particular wave or experience that made you think, ‘Yes, this is what I want to do’?
My first big wave session was during the pandemic in the winter of 2021 in Punta de lobos, it is not easy for me to go down the cliffs with my gun, but once in the water it is a very nice feeling, seeing the sea showing its power and we all take care of each other like a family, I really liked that. And when I caught my first big wave I immediately said wow this is what I always want to do!!!
You’re currently in Nazaré, surfing some of the world’s biggest waves with your boyfriend. What has that experience been like? Can you describe what it’s like to tackle these waves together?
It’s amazing to have a partner to surf big waves and travel the world. In Nazare it was very special, it was our first time there, so we rowed through the bay until we passed the lighthouse and crossed to Praia do Norte, sitting in our guns, surrounded by jestki and waves everywhere, it was totally different from what we were used to, but it was so good to be there. We are a team, we motivate and care for each other. And when you pay if we worry a little it is inevitable hahaha but we train together and we know that we are prepared for that.
Surfing and traveling together sounds like an incredible lifestyle. How does it impact your relationship to have this shared passion and face these challenges together?
It has been a very nice process, we are both 21 years old, and we both decided to dedicate ourselves to big waves, we have goals and we push each other to achieve them. It’s good because we understand each other a lot, when we are happy or frustrated, it’s good to have a partner.
What differences, if any, have you noticed between the surfing communities in Chile and here in Portugal or Europe in general?
When it comes to big waves, in Chile they only paddle and in Nazare they almost only tow in. But in general surfing is almost the same everywhere, everyone is crazy about the waves and when they get good they only talk about it hahaha
Big-wave surfing requires an incredible amount of courage. How do you mentally prepare yourself to paddle into some of the biggest waves, especially in Nazaré? Is there a ritual or mindset you focus on?
I always get a little nervous before entering hahaha but if I feel good physically I know I can, I take my breath to relax and oxygenate my body, and once inside the sea I feel very good. When a wave comes and I feel like I’m well positioned to go on it, I tell myself you can do it Domi, I turn off my mind, paddle hard and go hahaha
What are some of the risks you think about when you’re out there on these massive waves? How do you manage those fears when a huge set rolls in?
There are many risks for being there, part of our training is first aid and handling CPR well, and that is a little scary. But if you enter a large sea it is because you feel prepared, it is very important to always be very focused and avoid making mistakes. And when a huge set comes, try to row for your life hahaha and if you don’t make it through, just stay calm since you are responsible for being there 🙂
Big-wave surfing requires both physical strength and mental resilience. What kind of training do you do on land to stay prepared for the demands of the ocean?
Physical training, weight work to be strong and also mobility. And I go to the pool to train apnea and psychological training.
Do you have any superstitions or good-luck rituals you follow before paddling out on a big day?
I prepare my equipment well, I braid my hair, I laugh with my friends, I tell my mom to be calm hahaha, a kiss to my dog, my boyfriend and the water 🙂
How do you deal with wipeouts, especially on big waves? Is there a particular mindset or training you rely on when things get really intense?
In wipeouts you just have to stay calm. And you always have to be prepared if things get bad, since it is a possibility. I am a certified lifeguard, I took the B.W.R.A.G course, and every time there is the possibility of reviewing safety and first aid, I take advantage of going and getting better at handling these techniques.
The ocean can be a humbling force. Can you share a moment where you felt truly humbled by the sea, and what you learned from it?
This year on July 21 I entered my first barrel with my gun, it was the size of a house and dark in there, it is the most incredible thing I have ever seen. It was so special because that day I didn’t want to go into the water, the day before I had had many wipeouts. This day the swell was very slow, it had been like 2 hours without a single wave, I wanted to get out, and suddenly I told myself to be patient, I went up and a set came, in the first wave it was a boy, but I knew that the set was Out of two waves, mine was the biggest wave of the day and the greatest gift that Punta de Lobos has given me, I felt very connected to the sea. I learned a lot of perseverance, they say that waves come with names.
Tell us about the surfboards you ride. Big-wave boards are so different from typical shortboards, what do you look for in a board when you’re heading out on a big day?
My dad makes my boards for me, his brand is called Cipres and he makes them here in Punta de lobos. On my boards I look for it to fit my measurements and I trust my Dad that when I go on the wave it will go well and they always do! In keels I use the twiggy ones in trhusters.
Your boards are shaped by your father, Marcel, who runs Cipres Surfboards. How has that connection to your equipment impacted your surfing? Does it give you an extra level of confidence?
If he gives me confidence, he makes my boards with a lot of love and dedication. In my first gun, 9.8 he wrote on my board: “Pure love and faith – Dad”. This phrase became very special to me and my big wave surfing career.
The big-wave community is such a close-knit group. What’s it been like to be part of that, especially as a young woman?
I feel like everyone wants to take care of me and is surprised when a little girl goes on a wave hahaha I admire everyone a lot and I stay attentive learning
The female big-wave community has been growing over the years. How important has that support been for you, and what does it feel like to be part of a rising force of women in big waves?
I feel lucky to be part of this, seeing girls in Chile who write me such nice things and motivate them is special. I believe that women are capable of achieving anything! And surfing big waves with more women is the best, we had a great time.
Have there been any specific challenges or obstacles you’ve faced as a young woman in the big-wave scene? How have you approached those situations?
I have many dreams and I really want to get them but the biggest obstacle is always finances, sometimes it is sad but you have to make an effort and find a way to do it. And I’m currently injured in my ribs, I fell on a jet ski hahaha but I’m better now and almost ready to get back in the water. It was hard to know how to deal with the frustration of missing out on some swells, but it’s part of the process.
Is there a special friendship in the big-wave community that’s unique compared to other surf scenes? What do you think binds everyone together, especially here in Nazaré?
I think that in big wave surfing you are risking your life, so we all stay attentive taking care of each other and you feel that unity. In Nazare you have to have a team, a spotter, tow jetski, rescue jetski, safety unites a lot and the desire to catch the biggest wave of your life
You’re still young, and yet you’re already pushing the limits. How do you balance the thrill of progression with safety and longevity in the sport?
I really respect every place I surf, I have a lot of love and respect for the sea. My first session in Nazaré, I just kept observing and understanding how the waves work in each place, I stay calm and attentive and when I feel good and safe I go.
If you weren’t a big-wave surfer, what other passion or career do you think you’d want to pursue?
I really like gymnastics, and in studies I like neuroscience.
Are there any goals or dreams you have for the future, places you want to surf, personal records, or maybe inspiring other young women to join the big-wave scene?
I want to surf all the big waves in the world, I would like to one day get the record for the biggest wave paddled by a woman, and be invited to the Eddie Aikau. And to be able to transmit to new generations what I am learning.
Do you have a dream wave or location that you haven’t yet surfed but would love to try someday?
I would love to surf Teahupo and Fiji
If you could go back and give your younger self one piece of advice about big-wave surfing, what would it be?
Paddle hard hahaha
Big-wave surfing is known for its adrenaline. Can you describe the rush you feel when you’re dropping into a massive wave? What does that feeling mean to you personally, both in and out of the water?
It’s the best feeling ever, it’s hard to explain. But you feel so happy when you surf a big wave, or in a wipeout too, the adrenaline makes you feel capable of anything. And there are always more emotions at their best such as happiness, fear, frustration and many more. Surfing big waves is a connection with yourself and the sea.
Has your relationship with nature and the ocean evolved as you’ve become a big-wave surfer? Do you feel that surfing has influenced the way you view life as a whole?
Totally, I have so much respect and love for nature and the ocean, and a need to care for them. It has also taught me to work on patience and respect for other people. And that the best things are in the simple.
Why and when did you start using SurfEars? How have they impacted your time in the water?
I started using SurfEars last year, being a cold water surfer my ears have been closing to protect themselves, and I was little and I was not aware of what this meant, I always have pain in my ears when I fly on airplanes because of the pressure. So I started to worry and now I can’t go in the water without my earplugs, they are the best.
Five Quick and Fun Questions
What’s your favorite pre-surf snack?
Before surfing I only like to drink water, and after surfing something sweet
If you could surf anywhere in the world for a day, where would it be?
Tahiti
What’s one song that gets you pumped before a big session?
Zombie – The Cranberries
Who’s your biggest surf inspiration?
Justine Dupont, Lucas Chumbo and my boyfriend and my friends!
Dominique’s story is clearly about a connection and a deep love for the sea. Listening to her, it’s clear that big-wave surfing to her isn’t just about the adrenaline but also about respect, patience, and the unique bond surfers have with the ocean and nature. As she continues to chase her dreams, whether it’s surfing Teahupo’o or one day being part of the Eddie Aikau, it’s truly exciting to see her inspiring other big wave surfers and young women to take on big waves with such courage and determination.
Thank you, Dominique, for sharing your journey with us and for being part of the SurfEars community. We’re stoked to see where the waves take you next! 🙂