The Best Waves are Close to Home
Have you noticed that you seem to have the most fun surfing around home at your local spots? Obviously, some people are blessed to grow up next to world class waves, others lesser known waves and some in places where waves are sporadic, icy cold and well below average. But on those days where the stars align and you score your beloved home breaks and have one of those sessions for the ages, this becomes inconsequential. If you were given an option to trade up that session for anywhere else in the world, you would probably turn a blind eye to the proposal and stay loyal to the epic session you just had at your local.
Why is this so? Is it loyalty to your local spot or a deeper connection with that patch of ocean then any other on the globe? Or is it surprise that your local spots could ever be that good and you were lucky enough to score them? I think there are many reasons that maybe unique to the individual, but there is no doubt denying that when the waves are on at home, you are one very happy surfer! It is clear, that every surfer becomes attached to their local breaks, it may be where you caught your first wave, got your first barrel or got the beating of a lifetime. Events like this build your respect and admiration for that break which can take years to forge. It may only be one break that you build this connection with, therefore when it is on you wouldn’t want to be surfing anywhere else.
Growing up and surfing in your local area, you probably heard old wives’ tales about certain spots firing on epic swells in previous decades, when you and maybe even your grandparents weren’t even born. You don’t really believe them, finding it hard to imagine things like “there is a whole other section out the back” or “you can get stand tall barrels”. But then one day these old wives’ tales live up to your imagination and you score previously thought impossible conditions with all your friends and family at the place where you caught your first wave in the shore on the whitewash all those years ago.
Did I mention that the waves are always better when sharing it with the people you love and admire? You can travel all over the world and score epic waves, but it is not the same telling a story about those waves to your friends and families instead of sharing them with these people. How good is it to share pumping waves at home with your friends and family then continue the joy and froth with some food and beers after? In my opinion nothing is better. With what’s going on right now it might be hard to even surf your local spots and there is a very rare chance that you will be travelling abroad for waves anytime soon. So, don’t forget to appreciate, respect and be thankful of your local waves, because there is a good chance that they will be some of your best.
Words by Sam Shearer
The author having a blast at home. Photos by Wes Bennett.